![Ìàðîêêî, Ìàðàêåø](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/maracesh/00044-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî, Ìàðàêåø](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/maracesh/00207-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî, Ìàðàêåø](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/maracesh/00208-1-s.jpg) |
Ïî Ìàððàêåøó ìîæíî åçäèòü íà
òàêñè, à ìîæíî íà ëîøàäêå.
Öåíà îäèíàêîâàÿ |
Äîðîãà ê âîäîõðàíèëèùó |
Âîäîõðàíèëèùå. Òóò òàêæå âûðàùèâàþò ðûá. |
![Ìàðîêêî, Ìàðàêåø, Ìå÷åòü](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/maracesh/00209-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî, Ìàðàêåø](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/maracesh/00210-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî, Ìàðàêåø](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/maracesh/00211-1-s.jpg) |
Ïàðàäíûé âõîä ê ìå÷åòè
Êóòóáèÿ (Çîëîòûõ ÿáëîê) |
Ìàððàêåø íàçûâàþò ãîðîäîì
ðîç èëè ãîðîäîì ñàäîâ.
Î÷åíü çåëåíî è î÷åíü êðàñèâî |
Óäèâèòåëüíîé êðàñîòû äåðåâî.
Ýòè äåðåâüÿ áûëè ïðèâåçåíû â
Ìàðîêêî èç Þæíîé Àìåðèêè. |
![Ìàðîêêî, Ìàðàêåø, àïåëüñèíîâîå äåðåâî](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/maracesh/00219-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî, Ìàðàêåø, ïîâîçêè](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/maracesh/00235-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî, Ìàðàêåø, âîäîíîñ](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/maracesh/00273-1-s.jpg) |
Êàê îòëè÷èòü äèêèé (ãîðüêèé)
àïåëüñèí îò ñëàäêîãî? Ïî ÷åðåíêó:
ó äèêîãî ÷åðåíîê óòîëùåííûé. |
Ýêèïàæè íà ïëîùàäè
îòðóáëåííûõ ãîëîâ
(Äæàììà-ýëü-Ôíà) æäóò ñâîèõ åçäîêîâ |
Ñêóëüïòóðà âîäîíîñà â îòåëå
Ñîôèòåëü Sofitel |
![Ìàðîêêî, Ìàðàêåø, ëèôò](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/maracesh/00274-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî, Ìàðàêåø, Es Saadi](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Hotels/es saadi/00003-1-s.jpg) |
![](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Hotels/es saadi/00004-1-s.jpg) |
È ëèôòû ó íèõ êðàñèâûå. |
Íà ðåñåïöèè âûäàëè êëþ÷è
îò íîìåðà. Ìû áûëè, ìÿãêî
ñêàçàòü, óäèâëåíû ðàçìåðîì áðåëêà |
À ýòî äâåðü â íàø íîìåð â îòåëå ES
SAADI (de luxe) â Ìàðàêåøå |
![Ìàðîêêî, Ìàðàêåø, Es Saadi Palace](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Hotels/es saadi/00005-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî, Ìàðàêåø, Es Saadi Palace](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Hotels/es saadi/00006-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî, Ìàðàêåø, Es Saadi Palace](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Hotels/es saadi/00007-1-s.jpg) |
Ñêðîìíàÿ âàííàÿ (2 ðàêîâèíû, äæàêóçè,
äóø, áèäå, óíèòàç) |
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![Ìàðîêêî, Ìàðàêåø, Es Saadi Palace](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Hotels/es saadi/00008-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî, Ìàðàêåø, Es Saadi Palace](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Hotels/es saadi/00125-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî, Ìàðàêåø, Es Saadi Palace](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Hotels/es saadi/00128-1-s.jpg) |
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Äî îòåëÿ ES SAADI íèêîãäà íå
æèëà â íîìåðàõ, ãäå áûëà áû
îòäåëüííàÿ ãàðäåðîáíàÿ êîìíàòà.
Îêàçûâàåòñÿ ýòî òàê óäîáíî. |
Âïå÷àòëèâøèñü íîìåðîì, â
êîòîðîì íàñ ïîñåëèëè, íå óäåðæàëàñü
è íà ðåñåïöèè óçíàëà öåíó - $750/ñóòêè |
![Ìàðîêêî, Ìàðàêåø, Es Saadi Palace](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Hotels/es saadi/00042-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00015-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00012-1-s.jpg) |
Âèä èç íàøåãî íîìåðà. |
Ïîøëè ãóëÿòü â Ìåäèíó (ñòàðûé ãîðîä). Øèêàðíûå ñòàðûå äâåðè âåçäå. |
Ïî ëåãåíäå, øàðû íà ìèíàðåòå ìå÷åòè Êóòóáèà îçíà÷àþò 3 îñíîâíûõ ðåëèãèè: èóäàèçì,
õðèñòèàíñòâî, ìóñóëüìàíñòâî (âèäèìî,
êîãäà ñòðîèëè ìèíàðåò î áóääèçìå íå
ñëûøàëè), à 4-é øàð - ýòî æåíà î÷åðåäíîãî
ïàøè â ðàìàäàí äíåì ñúåëà âèíîãðàäèíêó.
È ÷òîáû ïîïàñòü â ðàé çàìàëèâàëà ýòîò ãðåõ
- ïåðåïëàâèëà âñå ñâîè óêðàøåíèÿ è
âîäðóçèëà 4-é øàð íà ìàêóøêó ìèíàðåòà. |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00016-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà. Êîñòþì æåíùèíû-òóàðåãà](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00027-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà. Ëàâêà ñòàðüåâùèêà](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00029-1-s.jpg) |
Ìàëåíüêèé îòåëü÷èê (ðÿä) âíóòðè Ìåäèíû. Òèøèíà è ëåïîòà. |
Îäåëè ìåíÿ â òóàðåãñêèé
(èëè áåäóèíñêèé?)
æåíñêèé êîñòþì. |
Ëàâêà æåñòÿíùèêà. Ñòîëüêî
ðàçíûõ øòó÷åê!!! |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00030-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà. Ëàâêà ñòàðüåâùèêà](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00031-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà. Ëàâêà ñòàðüåâùèêà](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00033-1-s.jpg) |
Ìíå çàêàçàëè ïðèâåçòè èç Ìàðîêêî
íàöèîíàëüíûé êèíæàë. |
È íà÷àëîñü ìîå ïóòåøåñòâèå
ïî ëàâêàì ñòàðüåâùèêîâ â Ìåäèíå |
Íàáðåëè íà ýòîò "óãîëîê Ïëþøêèíà".
×òîáû âñå ïåðåñìîòðåòü ñóòîê íå õâàòèò. |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà. Ëàâêà ñòàðüåâùèêà](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00034-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà. Ëàâêà ñòàðüåâùèêà](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00035-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà.](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00013-1-s.jpg) |
 ðóêàõ- ó ìåíÿ êèíæàë òóàðåãà.
Ñóâåíèðíûé. Îòâðàòèòåëüíàÿ ñòàëü
è îòâðàòèòåëüíîå êà÷åñòâî èñïîëíåíèÿ. |
Íî íîæ ÿ âñå òàêè êóïèëà ó äÿäüêè.
Îí îòêóäà-òî èç "çàêðîìîâ ðîäèíû" ïðèòàùèë îõàïêó êèíæàëîâ íå ñóâåíèðíûõ, à íîðìàëüíûõ. Èç êîòîðûõ ìû ñìîãëè âûáðàòü òî, ÷òî
áûëî íóæíî. Òîðãîâàòüñÿ íà÷àëè
ñ $400. Çàêîí÷èëè òîðã íà $140 |
Ñàäû Ìàððàêåøà |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà.](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00040-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà.](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00041-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà. Ðûíîê](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00132-1-s.jpg) |
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Ñòåíà Ìåäèíû èç ãëèíû.
Äûðêè â ñòåíå - âèäèìî ñäåëàíû äëÿ òîãî, ÷òîáû ãëèíà íå òðåñêàëàñü. |
Ïîñóäíàÿ ëàâêà |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà. Ðûíîê](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00133-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà. Ðûíîê](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00134-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà. Ðûíîê](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00135-1-s.jpg) |
Òåêñòèëüíàÿ ëàâêà |
À ýòî ãàëàíòåðåéíàÿ ëàâêà. Êàê ìû âûÿñíèëè ó ãèäà, â êîðçèíêå âíèçó ñëåâà - ãëèíÿíûå êðóæî÷êè, íå ÷òî
èíîå, êàê ïîìàäà. ß ïîñëþíèëà ïàëåö è ïîòåðëà ãëèíÿíûé êðóæîê -
ïàëåö ñòàë ÿðêî-êðàñíûì. Ñèíèå êàìóøêè ïî öåíòðó - êðàñêà äëÿ òêàíè. Âåðõíèé ðÿä - îòäóøêè äëÿ áåëüÿ. À ñïðàâà êîðçèíêà â
âåðõíåì ðÿäó - ìåñòíûå çóáî÷èñòêè. |
Ëàâêà ñïåöèé: êàððè, ïåðåö, èìáèðü è âñå îñòàëüíîå... |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà. Ðûíîê](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00136-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà.](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00137-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà.](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00138-1-s.jpg) |
Òîðãîâàÿ óëî÷êà â Ìåäèíå |
Âñå âðåìÿ çàãëÿäûâàëà â ïåðåóëêè: òààì âåçäå áûëî ÷èñòî!!!
Ïîòðÿñààþùå, ïî ñðàâíåíèþ ñ áàçàðîì â Êàèðå Õàí Ýëü Õàëèëè,
ãäå ãðÿçíî è âîíüêî, Ìåäèíà â Ìàððàêåøå - îáðàçåö ÷èñòîòû. |
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![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà. Ðûíîê](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00139-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà. Ðûíîê](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00140-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà. Ðûíîê](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00141-1-s.jpg) |
Êîæàíàÿ ëàâêà. Êîæà íå
î÷åíü õîðîøåãî êà÷åñòâà â ëàâêå.
Íà ëþáèòåëÿ, ñêàæåì òàê. |
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Ñóõîôðóêòû ðàçíûå. |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà. Ðûíîê](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00142-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà.](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00143-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà.](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00144-1-s.jpg) |
Ïëîùàäü îòðóáëåííûõ ãîëîâ. |
Âå÷åðîì ãèä Ñààä ïîâåë íàñ
íà óæèí â íàöèîíàëüíûé ðåñòîðàí â Ìåäèíå. |
Øëè ïî ðàçíûì ïîäâîðîòíÿì.
Îáðàòíî áåç ïðîâîäíèêà âðÿä ëè âûøëè áû è íàøëè ñâîé îòåëü.
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![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà.](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00145-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà.](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00146-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà.](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00147-1-s.jpg) |
Äâåðè... |
Îïÿòü äâåðè â Ìåäèíå.
Îíè ìåíÿ òàê æå ïîðàçèëè, êàê è Ìàððîêàíñêèå ñâåòèëüíèêè
è ëþñòðû, êîòîðûì ÿ ïîñâÿòèëà îòäåëüíóþ ñòðàíè÷êó. |
Ïî ñëîâàì ãèäà, â Ìåäèíå íåò äâîðíèêîâ. Óáèðàþò ñàìè æèòåëè ïî-î÷åðåäè. |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà.](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00155-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà. Äâîðåö âèçèðÿ](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00157-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà. Äâîðåö âèçèðÿ](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00158-1-s.jpg) |
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Ìàðîêêî. Ìàððàêåø. Ìåäèíà.
Äâîðåö Áàõèÿ (âèçèðÿ). 18 âåê.
Âî äâîðöå æèëè: âèçèðü ñ
4-ìÿ æåíàìè è 25-þ íàëîæíèöàìè. |
Âèçèðü âî äâîðöå ïðèíèìàë
ïîñåòèòåëåé. Äëÿ ìóñóëüìàí,
èóäååâ è õðèñòèàí áûëè îòäåëüíûå "êîìíàòû äëÿ îæèäàíèÿ".
Íà ôîòîãðàôèè - êîìíàòà äëÿ
èóäååâ: â îðíàìåíòå ïðèñóòñòâóþò
6-òè êîíå÷íûå çâåçäû. |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà. Äâîðåö âèçèðÿ](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00159-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà. Äâîðåö âèçèðÿ](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00163-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà. Äâîðåö âèçèðÿ - Ãàðåì](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00164-1-s.jpg) |
Îòäåëêà äâîðöà ñîõðàíèëàñü
î÷åíü õîðîøî. Àíãëè÷àíå
(èëè ôðàíöóçû?) âûâåçëè
òîëüêî ìåáåëü, êîâðû è ïðåäìåòû
èñêóññòâà. |
Âèçèðü ðåøàë ïîëèòè÷åñêèå
âîïðîñû. Íî îñîáî çàïóòàííûå ïåðåãîâîðû îí ïðîâîäèë â ýòîé
êîìíàòå. Â êîìíàòå íà óðîâíå 3-õ ìåòðîâ ñëóõîâûå îêíà äëÿ êàæäîé æåíû. Æåíû ïîäñëóøèâàëè ïåðåãîâîðû è ïîòîì äàâàëè
âèçèðþ ñâîè ñîâåòû - êàê
ïîñòóïèòü.
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À ýòî ÷àñòü äâîðöà, ãäå æèëè íàëîæíèöû. 25 êîìíàò, ïîñåðåäèíå íåáîëüøîé ôîíòàí. Íàëîæíèöû
íå âûõîäèëè íèêîãäà â Ìåäèíó.
Òîðãîâöû ñàìè ïðèíîñèëè ñâîè òîâàðû âî äâîðåö. |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà. Äâîðåö âèçèðÿ - Ãàðåì](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00165-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà. Äâîðåö âèçèðÿ - Ìîëåëüíàÿ êîìíàòà](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00166-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà. Äâîðåö âèçèðÿ](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00169-1-s.jpg) |
Ïëî÷åìó íàëîæíèö 25?
Ïîòîìó ÷òî â ìóñóëüìàíñêîì
êàëåíäàðå â ìåñÿöå 29 äíåé.
Âîò è ïîëó÷àåòñÿ, ÷òî ó ìóæ÷èíû
íå ìîæåò áûòü áîëüøå 29
æåíùèí: 4 æåíû + 25 íàëîæíèö...
ýòî ìàêñèìóì. |
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![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà. Äâîðåö âèçèðÿ](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00171-1-s.jpg) |
![Ìàðîêêî. Ìàðàêåø. Ìåäèíà. Ñèíàãîãà](/files/articles/marocco/skazka_magrib/Marakesh_Medina/00172-1-s.jpg) |
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À ýòî êàêòóñ. Åãî âåðõóøêà
äîñòàåò äî âòîðîãî ýòàæà. |
Âíóòðåííèé äâîðèê ñèíàãîãè. |